I’ve always wanted to take the Southwold ferry.
It’s a 100ft boat crossing from Southwold to Walberswick, a fine alternative to the 1.3-mile walk around via the bridge.
We finally did it on Monday.
The ferry is a large rowing boat operated by one man who rows from the bow. A sign on board says ‘Maximum 12 passengers.’
You reach it via a wooden jetty leading down from the road. Another sign instructs passengers to wait at the road until called forward.
So we did that.
The ferryman rowed over from the far side to collect us, and congratulated us on obeying the sign as he tied up.
He was about 60. Wiry, tanned, and with a twinkle in his eye. He had the air of a part-time poet.
He was very confident as he told us how to step down onto the boat one at a time and where to sit. I was wondering when to pay, but he had his patter off to a T as he said, “May I take your fares now, please.” It was £2 each.
He pulled away. I asked him how many crossings he does a day. He said they do a four-hour shift and that can be up to 40 crossings. We were impressed.
My mum remarked, “You must be fit.”
“Not really,” he said. “But you do need a certain amount of low cunning.”
I processed his words, wondering what he meant. He was reading my face well, and he explained that you have to be able to judge exactly how to position the boat depending on the tide, wind, and load.
As he spoke, he angled the bow upstream of the landing stage – what kayakers call a ferry glide. The current carried us sideways across the harbour while he maintained our angle with subtle adjustments.
He added that he had to make 32 crossings whilst the harbour master watched before he was permitted to work the route.
I noticed a small outboard motor on the stern with a life ring hung over it – clearly not required under normal circumstances. I asked when he uses it.
“It can be useful sometimes,” he said, offering nothing more.
As we approached, he angled the boat further into the flow. The oars came inboard and the current laid us alongside the landing perfectly. All without breaking his chat.
Two quick flicks of rope and we were tied off. He helped us out, steady and kind.
My mum asked how far away the bridge was.
He looked at her with a cheeky wink.
“We do not speak of that here.”




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