Tag: travel

  • MSR Dragonfly Stove

    MSR Dragonfly Stove

    Purchased: May 2020

    Used on: Sea kayak expeditions, wild camps, and coastal trips across Scotland and the North of England

    Five Years, Hundreds of Miles of Paddling

    I’ve been cooking on this stove since May 2020, and in that time it’s been with me on some of the best trips of my life- a three-day circumnavigation of Raasay and Rona off the Scottish mainland, island hopping around Arisaig and a full circumnavigation of the Isle of Bute. Days regularly running to 40 kilometres of paddling, wild camps on rock ledges and beaches, thunderstorms, swell, wind, and on the Summer Isles in July 2025 the most catastrophically bad midges I have ever encountered in my life. Through all of it, the Dragonfly performed.

    That’s the review, really. But here’s the detail.

    Why Liquid Fuel?

    The Dragonfly runs on white gas, kerosene, diesel, and petrol. That flexibility is the whole argument for it. I have petrol around constantly for the lawn mower, the chainsaw, general land maintenance. Being able to top up the stove bottle from the same stock I’m already running is genuinely convenient in a way that’s hard to overstate.  

    It’s also good to know you can easily get more cooking fuel wherever you are in the World. 

    Gas canister stoves work fine. But unless you’re doing a single day trip, you always need a spare and I know myself well enough to know I’d resent the constant purchasing. With petrol, there’s no calculating how much gas is left in a canister, no anxious rattling at camp. You look in the bottle and you know.

    If you’re an occasional user going out a few times a year, a gas stove is probably the better choice. Simpler, lighter, no technique required. The Dragonfly needs a lot more practice and commitment to use happily.  

    What It Does Well

    It’s powerful. When it’s running properly, it sounds like a small jet engine. Water boils fast, which after a long day on the water matters more than you’d think.

    It’s robust. Five years of being stuffed into dry bags and kayak hatches, and it hasn’t missed a beat.

    It’s economical. Petrol is cheap. No fuel goes to waste at the end of a trip – whatever’s left in the bottle goes straight into the car or the mower.

    It’s adjustable. The Dragonfly gives you genuine flame control.  This is useful – you can maintain just enough heat to keep your boil in the bag products at temperature without boiling over. It also comes in very handy if you are frying.  

    It’s genuinely good fun to use. There’s a ritual to it. Once you’ve got the technique down, lighting it feels satisfying. It feels a bit dangerous, there’s every chance of singeing your eyebrows each time you light it if you are not careful.  

    The Honest Downsides

    Petrol is flammable and it smells. If something goes wrong with containment especially in a kayak hatch or rucksack, it can contaminate kit in a way that gas never would. I keep it in a dedicated dry bag and have never had a problem, but it requires thought.

    There’s more to go wrong than a simple gas stove. More components, more maintenance. And the technique takes practice. The first few times you light one, it’s not intuitive.

    Premium petrol is worth using. I believe the better detergent additives make a real difference to how cleanly it burns, and fresh petrol works noticeably better than old stock. I believe MSR would prefer you to use dedicated stove fuel for optimum longevity but as I say, I’m in year 6 of mine with no issues.  

    If you want the lightest possible kit, this is probably not for you – a small gas stove would take up less space and weigh less.  This is not so much of concern for my kayaking trips.  

    How to Use It — The Technique

    Turn the dragonfly stove body upside down and shake it for sixty seconds before use. There’s a small pin inside the jet that bounces around and clears carbon deposits. Shake again after use for the same reason.

    Pump approximately 20 – 30 times to pressurise the bottle.

    Release a tablespoon of petrol into the small dish beneath the burner, then close the valve. Light the petrol in the dish and let it burn for around 60 seconds — this heats the metal of the jet, which is what allows the fuel to vaporise properly. Then slowly reintroduce flow. Not too much. Let it catch. When the flame shifts from yellow-orange to blue, it’s running correctly. Give it full flow and let it go.

    Give the bottle an occasional pump while cooking to maintain pressure.

    When you’re done, turn off at the bottle rather than at the stove. This lets the fuel line dry out, which reduces drips  and smell.

    I don’t generally go on kayak expeditions by myself and my friend Nick has exactly the same stove.  That means that if one of us breaks a pump or similar we’ve automatically got spare parts and spare fuel.  If I was going solo much I’d perhaps be tempted to get something simpler.  

    The Verdict

    The MSR Dragonfly suits a particular kind of person doing a particular kind of trip. If you’re spending multiple days out, you’re already carrying petrol, and you’re willing to learn the technique — it’s an excellent piece of kit. Reliable, powerful, and satisfying to use. It’s been on every meaningful trip I’ve done in the last five years, and I’ve never once wished I’d brought something else.

    As an Amazon associate, I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases but they do not cost you a penny extra.  

    I buy all my own gear and write independent reviews. If you found this helpful,buy me a coffee.

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  • Driver’s mate

    Driver’s mate

    I had a spare summer in between university and starting work properly in the new year. I needed a job; I knew I didn’t want to work in a shop or an office. I was intrigued by an old-fashioned-looking advert for a “driver’s mate.”  

    I was interviewed by the matriarch, a grand lady called Pamela, well-spoken, pencil skirt, heels, pearls, lipstick, good hair. She had married into the family who gave their name to the business. She seemed ever so slightly dissatisfied to find that this was her life.  

    The pay was £3.70 an hour between 7 and 3 and time and a half between 3 and 5. I was issued just the one liveried polo shirt; I got a bang of the previous wearer’s Lynx as I pulled it on.  

    I arrived early on the Monday. There was already a short queue of three guys lined up to clock in. They each found a small piece of card with their name on it and inserted it into the slot of a machine for stamping. I copied them. It felt a bit dehumanising and undignified.  According to a sign, stamping someone else’s card would be treated as gross misconduct. Much later, in my petulance, I found that it made no difference whether you stamped your card or not; you still got paid just the same. They must have chucked the cards in the bin.  

    The other men seemed much older to me. I was 21; they were probably in their forties. I can still remember most of them. 

    Tony was one of the forklift drivers. His teeth were the right size, but his face was too small for them. Slender, just over 5ft tall. Leathery, olive skin. A salt and pepper handlebar moustache. Furtive, busy eyes. Oil-stained blue jeans. The configuration of his teeth and face caused a whistling when he spoke; it was not an unpleasant sound, though you could not often say the same for his conversation. I realised he was close to the bottom of the social hierarchy.

    Reggie was the longest-standing driver. Probably in his fifties. Blonde, thinning hair but still enough of it to style with a comb. Red face, high blood pressure. Mouth set into a sneer. Angry eyes, belligerent. He had utter contempt for the firm and especially for the other drivers. He reminded me of a fox. 

    Malcolm – he drove the other forklift but only when needed. The rest of the time, he did short drops in one of the vans. He had a baby face, short, greying curly hair. I could never work out if he was a young-looking old person or an old-looking young person. He lived with his Mum. His nickname was Pigeon because he once shat himself. 

    The warehouse used to be in the neighbouring town. After they moved it, the owners let the drivers use the vans to travel over. The pecking order was such that Reggie drove. Another wagon driver would be up front, Malcolm and a few others used to ride in the dark, stinking back. 

    Flash – he was a nice guy. He drove the “N” reg Mercedes lorry, the largest on the fleet. I was to work with him at first. A family man, he’d started out as a driver’s mate like me and worked his way up. He communicated mainly through impressions of other people or phrases from TV shows. Every day, as he drove through the high street, he would look for a fat person and then declare it to be “A day of fat people” in absolute genuine amazement.  

    7am – stamp card.

    7am – 7:30 load the wagons. A mad half hour, both forklifts nipping in and out of the warehouse non-stop. Wagons queuing up waiting their turn. Drivers smoking fags, mates fastening curtains, checking paperwork, lifting cardboard boxes of crisps and pork scratchings.  

    7:30 – head out for the day. You could be going anywhere within the county or the two either side and even into London. The drivers knew the routes. Conversation was sparse.  

    On arrival, the driver would try and park as close as possible. They would go in and find the licensee. I would open the sides or the back and start loading up a sack barrow.  

    A load could be anything from ten aluminium barrels of beer to a slab of coke cans and some crisps. In exchange for cash, the stock would be rotated in the cellar, keeping the fresh to the back.

    Most landlords would offer us a pint, both of us. 

    We ate lunch in between drops.  

    2 p.m. onwards – arrive back at the warehouse. The next day’s orders were waiting for us on clipboards.  

    The driver found their favourite spot of floor and stood still, calling out the orders in batches of what they considered the mate should be able to grab in one go. It was a memory game, not only of what had been called out but also, where it was stored.  

    We used blue sack barrows, like a large capital L. They had pneumatic tyres and a hook halfway up the back that you could drop over the lip of an 11-gallon barrel. If you were good, you could get two 11-gallon barrels side by side on the bottom, and another one on top.  

    They sold wine as well. There was some sort of unspoken collective trauma about that because now, only an actual manager was permitted to select wine and hand it to the driver.  

    3 p.m. – that was it. Each driver had created an island of pallets, one for each destination. Produce all cling-filmed into place. Clipboard laid on top, ready to go. 

    For reasons unclear, we all had to hang around for another two hours, for which, as I said earlier, we got overtime.  

    Almost everyone sat in the bait room drinking cups of tea, eating gone-off snacks, chatting rubbish. It wasn’t really my kind of thing. After a while, I slipped away and found myself a bit of a den in amongst the produce where I could sit and read my book.  

    I got paid in cash for the first two weeks. Something to do with not wanting to go to the trouble of setting up a bank transfer until I’d sunk or swum. One of the office girls used to fetch it down for me every Friday in a little envelope. A small handful of notes and a few coins. Tony always managed to be there when the girls came downstairs. He snatched the envelope from me, pressing it to his nose and inhaling as he asked her, “Has that been in your pocket?”  

    I gather he’d once been caught sniffing their stuff upstairs; he wasn’t allowed in the office anymore. He told me it was because he’d wiped his knob on the lady owner’s telephone in relation to some dispute or another. He talked a lot of nonsense. He was fond of reciting “Mary had a little lamb” limericks; they were funny the first time.  

    It should have been quite a jolly, happy place really, but it wasn’t. The owners were the second or third generation; there was no evidence of any passion for the business. I got the feeling they were trapped. There was a permanent cloud of decay and gloom; it was clearly not going to last long into the new century.

    After a few weeks, I started to notice extra items being loaded. A pallet of cans of coke, a couple of barrels here and there.  I didn’t say anything. I realised some of the drivers were making a bit of extra cash. It was a shame, but I guess they felt it was their way of correcting their petty grievances. The owners must have known about it.

    I knew it was time to move on when 9/11 happened. There was no internet on mobile phones then, so it was a case of turning on a radio and listening. It had started to break as we headed back into the yard that afternoon. I was horrified; nothing like this had ever happened in the world of my 21-year experience. Nobody else seemed affected or even particularly interested. They carried on talking about tits and moaning about the firm as I sat in the cab of a parked lorry listening to the world changing. 

    I gave my notice at the end of that week.  

  • The 0802

    The 0802

    I’m neurodiverse. I am oblivious to many things that stand out to typical people, but yet there are other, almost invisible streams of information that shout at me. 

    People would say I can’t read the room. But that’s not true. Reading the room is addictive, narcotic, exciting; I love doing that. Computing how to behave, how to stand, where to look, what facial expression to adopt, what’s safe to talk about—that’s hard. But I don’t complain; I’m lucky. I’ve learned about myself. 

    On the 0802 to Birmingham, I was hyper-aroused. Trains can be chaotic, dramatic, bursting with vignettes if you’re curious enough to look. 

    A man in his thirties, tattoos around the side of his neck and across his throat. Four-five days of stubble, a shaven head. Grey tracksuit bottoms, baggy, dirty. No name trainers, white socks. 5’7 or so, about 10 stone. Angry, very angry. Also, afraid. Black rucksack on his back, one strap only. A cheap rucksack, thin straps; the black fabric had a white/grey tinge to it. Stuffed full, the fabric drum tight. Carrying/dragging another suitcase that came up to the middle of his thighs. Walking quickly, jerky, stabby movements, his eyes working, staring through the electric door into the carriage beyond, scanning for what? For who?  As he reached me, I saw he also had an extendable dog lead with a small, black bulldog on the end. The lead stretched taut, the dog an unwilling passenger, ears back, tail down, front legs braced forward.  

    You get a fresh cast at every station.  I was watching. The tip of a white stick flicked left to right, left to right, coming closer to me at less than a walking pace. The movement— deft, skilful, like how a bricklayer’s trowel becomes a part of them. The stick belonged to a woman; I could see slim legs wearing grey tights. Suede boots up to the knee, a black skirt with a cardigan. Three rows in front of me, she stopped next to two empty seats to her right. She stepped into the space between the seat cushions and the back of the row in front, her face pressed up to the feeble LCD display that tells you the seat number and whether it’s booked or not. She was confident, independent, far from helpless. An undertone of defiance.  

    A second lady followed her into the space.  Older, sixties maybe. Grey hair. Kindly, maternal, a bit worried. Speaking to each other, not sitting down yet. They made no eye contact with any of the other passengers who were looking their way. Something about the angle of the younger lady’s shoulders and a little nod of the head told me she was the decision-maker. They sat, the older lady in the aisle. They just had handbags, no suitcases. I could only see the older lady now; she too had a white stick, she folded it away into her bag. She held her iPhone to the tip of her nose, took it away again, and took a small, black microscope from her handbag. She held it between her eye and the screen of her phone; it looked uncomfortable.  

    Another station, more new faces. A lady, late fifties, arrived from behind. Sensible, sensible shoes, a calf-length dress, a tote bag. Straight grey hair. Glasses. She was reading off the seat numbers to her left; she slowed as her peripheral vision told her that her seat was taken. She slipped into the seat in front, took her phone out, and shuffled around getting the right app open. She looked back and forth from the phone to the seat numbers, but only for a second. Her mouth set into neutral; a decision made, she sat where she was. Took out a Sudoku book on sand-coloured paper; a biro scratched away at the pages. 

    A male voice, ever so slightly louder than the background chit-chat, confident, authoritative.  Coming towards us. He had found the right volume and cadence of speech to switch his passengers on; tickets and screens were ready and waiting. He stopped at the pair of ladies, studied the screen of the older lady, and asked if there was a pass to go with the ticket. She rummaged. An arm appeared from the window seat, clutching a plastic wallet. The older lady said they were not sure if they were in the right seats. Screens checked again. The guard looked back over his left shoulder, “One of you there, and the other where you are.” But this wasn’t an instruction; his voice was soft, unthreatening; he was just explaining. He said he would keep an eye out, and it would be fine. One of the seats had been booked from the station before anyway. The other lady raised her head from the Sudoku book and said, “Oh, that was me actually, so don’t worry.”  

    I was so invested at this stage; I gave her an involuntary beam, so did the ticket inspector. Something, I don’t know what, I could see no faces, but something told me that the passengers around me had all been holding their breath a little; a millisecond of silence ended, the tension burst with this release of kindness.  

    I felt the familiar prickling in my eyes that comes with shared emotion; I felt good; I was amongst kind, sound people; we had all shared a little moment together on the 0802.